Christian Dior - The New Look Revolution

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Christian Dior - a man, who was very sensitive since his childhood. His memories are filled with fragrance of flowering garden, mother´s love and their common time in the garden. His mother Madeleine is the reason, why he loved flowers. Christian never touched his flowers and he used to talk to them. He admired an art, shapes, lines and colours. It is remarkable that Christian found his love of fashion in his 42 years. Parents wanted him to become a diplomat, but he disagreed and went his own way. How it all began?


Christian Dior - muž, ktorý bol už ako malý nesmierne vnímavým človekom. Miloval svoje detstvo. Jeho spomienky sú plné vône rozkvitnutej záhrady, lásky jeho matky Madeleine a ich spoločne strávenýh chvíľ v záhrade. Jeho mama bola totiž tá, ktorá zapríčinila Christianovu lásku ku kvetom. Svoje kvety nikdy nechytal a rád sa im prihováral. Obdivoval umenie, tvary, línie, hru farieb. Je pozoruhodné, že Christian svoju lásku k móde objavil až vo svojich 42 rokoch. Rodičia z neho chceli mať diplomata, no Christian sa vzoprel a išiel si svojou vlastnou cestou. Neskôr vo svete spôsobil poriadny rozruch. Ako to ale celé začalo?







This talented fashion designer was born in 1905, into Madeleine and Maurice Dior´s family. Thanks to the successful company with fertilizer, Christian and his siblings lived very well, even despite of the First World War. His family owned beautiful Les Rhumbs residency in Granville, which has ensured him an amazing childhood. Seaview, pervasive fragrance of roses and that awesome silence. As he said, he never forgot that majestic pink residency with grey roof. From that time, pink and grey  became his the most favourite colours.

Tento talentovaný návrhár sa narodil v roku 1905, do rodiny Madeleine a Maurice Diorových. Vďaka dobre prosperujúcej firme s hnojivom si Christian a jeho súrodenci aj napriek 1. Svetovej vojne  žili vskutku dobre. Jeho rodina vlastnila nádherné sídlo Les Rhumbs v Granville, ktoré sa postaralo o Christianove krásne detstvo. Výhľad na more, prenikavá vôňa ruží a to úžasné ticho. Ako sám vravel, nikdy nezabudol na tú majestátnu ružovú budovu so šedými škridlami. Odvtedy sa práve ružová a šedá stali jeho najobľúbenejšími farbami.







As the years went by, Christian´s mind was formed and it was time to decide, what he wants to do with his future. His parents wanted him to become a diplomat, but Christian saw it in a different way. Except for flowers and work in his garden, he was fascinated by architecture, as well. He liked to observe shapes, proportions and lines. He claimed that everything has its coherent structure. He liked to be surrounded by his friends - artists (Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, Christian Bérard, Jean Hugo, etc); he loved their conversations and visions of the world. They organized different celebrations, sessions and carnivals. It was known, that Christian was a master in clothes changing. Once everybody admired his costume of a lion (a symbol of the king of a fashion jungle?). He also liked to create the costumes for his friends. He loved carnivals, because he liked to "hide from the world". He was fascinated by the idea of exploring personalities, which are hiding behind their masks. He often spoke about himself in two personalities. He saw himself not only as an artist, but also as the same little Christian, surrounded by flowers in Le Rhumbs villa. He was very shy person and he did not like to show himself in the public. He protected his privacy, especially in his famous times.


Ako roky ubiehali, Christianova myseľ sa formovala a bolo na čase sa rozhodnúť, čomu sa chce v živote naozaj venovať. Rodičia chceli z neho mať diplomata, no Christian to videl inak. Okrem kvetín a práce v záhrade ho fascinovala architektúra. Rád sledoval tvary, proporcie a línie. Tvrdil, že všetko má svoju premyslenú štruktúru.  Rád sa obklopoval spoločnosťou umelcov, miloval ich spoločné rozhovory a ich pohľady na svet. Jeho priatelia boli slávne mená ako Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, Christian Bérard, Jean Hugo a podobne. Usporiadavali rôzne oslavy, posedenia a karnevaly. Bolo známe, že Christian bol majstrom v prezliekaní sa. Na jednom karnevale každý obdivoval jeho kostým leva (symbolika kráľa módnej džungle?). Rád vytváral kostýmy aj pre svojich priateľov. Karnevaly miloval, pretože sa rád "ukrýval pred svetom". Fascinovala ho predstava spoznávania osobností ukrývajúcich sa za maskami. Často o sebe rozprával v dvoch osobách. Vnímal sa totiž nielen ako umelec, ale aj ako stále ten istý malý Christian, obklopený kvetmi vo vile Le Rhumbs. Bol veľmi hanblivý a nerád sa ukazoval na verejnosti. Svoje súkromie si hlavne počas svojej najväčšej slávy strážil.



In 1928 Christian had an gallery with his friend, so the art was always really close to him. He sold the paintings by his friends and fully perceived their whole essence. The year 1931 was for Dior´s family a totally disaster. They not only went bankrupt, but also lost their beloved mother Madeleine. In 1934 Christian became ill and got tuberculosis. He recovered in Ibiza, where he discovered his relationship to the drawing and in 1936 he created his first fashion sketches. He studied a woman, her gracefulness and beauty. He often compared the woman to the flower. A year later, he created  a stunning model named Café Anglais for Robert Piquet.


V roku 1928 viedol Christian spolu so svojim priateľom galériu, takže umenie mu bolo stále nablízku. Predával obrazy svojich priateľov a naplno vnímal ich podstatu. Rok 1931 bol pre rodinu Diorových katastrofou. Nielen že skrachovali, ešte aj prišli o svoju milovanú mamu Madeleine. V roku 1934 Christiana postihla ťažká tuberkulóza, z ktorej sa liečil na Ibize. Práve na tomto pobyte v Španielsku si našiel Christian vzťah ku kresleniu a v roku 1936 vytváral svoje prvé módne náčrtky. Študoval ženu, jej ladnosť a pôvab. Často ju prirovnával ku kvetu. Rok na to vytvoril pozoruhodný model s názvom Café Anglais pre Roberta Piqueta.





The whole world was naturally marked by the Second World War. And so were women, who had to change their beautiful gowns for dungarees and they started to work in factories. They forgot what it is like to be a woman. This is the moment, when Christian Dior, in 1947, comes with his first collection in saloon on Montaigne Avenue (that building still exists as a Christian Dior´s factory in Paris). That collection made a fashion revolution along with New Look, which changed the vision of the woman and brought back her charm, elegance and feminity.

Druhou svetovou vojnou bol pochopiteľne poznačený celý svet. A tiež ženy, ktoré svoje krásne róby museli vymeniť za montérky a pracovať v továrňach. Zabudli na to, aké to je byť ženou. A práve v tomto povojnovom období (rok 1947) prichádza na scénu Christian Dior so svojou prvou kolekciou v salóne na avenue Montaigne (táto budova je dodnes sídlom firmy Christian Dior). Spôsobila módnu revolúciu s tzv. New Lookom, ktorý rúcal všetky predstavy o vtedajšej žene a vrátil jej šarm, eleganciu a ženskosť.





It is apparent, that Christian reflected his love for the architecture in fashion. His New Look is characterized by its tapered waist, skirt´s cut to the A-shape and length of the skirt extended below the knees. Notice, how easily we can see the symbolism of his woman to the flower compariison - a skirt looks like corolla in the opposite position. I must not forget about a hat, gloves and elegance, by which Christian wanted to show that pants and dirty hands from a factory does not suit to women.

Je viditeľné, ako Christian svoju lásku k architektúre zobrazil v móde. Jeho New Look je typický svojim zúženým pásom, strihom sukne do tvaru A a jej zmenenou dĺžkou, ktorá vedie tesne pod kolená. Všimnite si, ako je krásne vidieť symbolika jeho prirovnania ženy ku kvetu - sukňa vyzerá ako obrátené okvetie. Nesmiem zabudnúť na klobúk, rukavičky a eleganciu, ktorou chcel Christian ukázať, že nohavice a špinavé ruky z továrne skutočne nie sú pre ženy. 








Marcel Boussac significantly helped Christian and his company with money. The years went by, and Marcel suggested him to nominate his successor. Christian liked a young talent named Yves Saint Laurent very much. Christian and Yves were like a father and son. After Christian´s sudden death in 1957, Marc Bohan in 1961 surprisingly became his successor! It is a big mystery why, but Yves later also became famous thanks to his great talent.

Marcel Boussac výrazne pomohol Christianovi a jeho firme  po finančnej stránke. Roky plynuli a Marcel mu navrhol, aby určil svojho následovníka. Christianovi sa veľmi páčil mladý talent Yves Saint Laurent. Christian a Yves boli ako otec a syn. Po náhlej Christianovej smrti v roku 1957 sa v roku 1961 prekvapivo stal  jeho nasledovníkom Marc Bohan! Je to veľká záhada, no Yves sa neskôr presadil vďaka svojmu talentu i sám.


Today, we can see the Christian Dior brand in an awesome progress. Except for clothes (and its great factory, for example in Paris, where dressmakers sew everything manually!) is this brand known for its beautiful accessories - jewellery, handbags and unforgettable fragrance of Dior´s perfumes.

Dnes môžme vidieť značku Christian Dior v úžasnom rozkvete. Okrem oblečenia (a svojej skvelej dielni napríklad v Paríži, kde krajčiri šijú všetko ručne!) je táto značka známa nádhernými doplnkami  v podobe šperkov, kabeliek a nezabudnuteľnej vône v podobe Diorových parfémov. 



Dior is a brand with a very rich history. I like that its owners are still trying to preserve its charm. For me, Christian is one of the most talented designers ever and it was a pleasure for me to write this article. At the end I attach a video from stunning exhibition in Seoul, which was really magnifique!

Dior je značkou, ktorá má veľmi bohatú históriu. Páči sa mi, že sa jej vlastníci stále snažia zachovať jej čaro. Christian je pre mňa jeden z najtalentovanejších návrhárov vôbec a bolo mi cťou o ňom napísať dnešný článok. Na záver dávam video z impozantnej výstavy v Soule, ktorá bola skutočne magnifique!





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